The Innocents Abroad

第6章

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第6章

The Innocents Abroad Mark Twain

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The Innocents Abroad
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  ByLyonsandtheSaône(wherewesawtheladyofLyonsandthoughtlittleofhercomeliness),byVillaFranca,Tonnere,venerableSens,Melun,Fontainebleau,andscoresofotherbeautifulcities,weswept,alwaysnotingtheabsenceofhogwallows,brokenfences,cowlots,unpaintedhouses,andmud,andalwaysnoting,aswell,thepresenceofcleanliness,grace,tasteinadorningandbeautifying,eventothedispositionofatreeortheturningofahedge,themarvelofroadsinperfectrepair,voidofrutsandguiltlessofevenaninequalityofsurface——webowledalong,hourafterhour,thatbrilliantsummerday,andasnightfallapproachedweenteredawildernessofodorousflowersandshrubbery,spedthroughit,andthen,excited,delighted,andhalfpersuadedthatwewereonlythesportofabeautifuldream,lo,westoodinmagnificentParis!

  Whatexcellentordertheykeptaboutthatvastdepot!Therewasnofranticcrowdingandjostling,noshoutingandswearing,andnoswaggeringintrusionofservicesbyrowdyhackmen。Theselattergentrystoodoutside——stoodquietlybytheirlonglineofvehiclesandsaidneveraword。Akindofhackmangeneralseemedtohavethewholematteroftransportationinhishands。Hepolitelyreceivedthepassengersandusheredthemtothekindofconveyancetheywanted,andtoldthedriverwheretodeliverthem。Therewasno\"talkingback,\"nodissatisfactionaboutovercharging,nogrumblingaboutanything。InalittlewhilewewerespeedingthroughthestreetsofParisanddelightfullyrecognizingcertainnamesandplaceswithwhichbookshadlongagomadeusfamiliar。Itwaslikemeetinganoldfriendwhenweread\"RuedeRivoli\"onthestreetcorner;weknewthegenuinevastpalaceoftheLouvreaswellasweknewitspicture;whenwepassedbytheColumnofJulyweneedednoonetotelluswhatitwasortoremindusthatonitssiteoncestoodthegrimBastille,thatgraveofhumanhopesandhappiness,thatdismalprisonhousewithinwhosedungeonssomanyyoungfacesputonthewrinklesofage,somanyproudspiritsgrewhumble,somanybraveheartsbroke。

  Wesecuredroomsatthehotel,orrather,wehadthreebedsputintooneroom,sothatwemightbetogether,andthenwewentouttoarestaurant,justafterlamplighting,andateacomfortable,satisfactory,lingeringdinner。Itwasapleasuretoeatwhereeverythingwassotidy,thefoodsowellcooked,thewaiterssopolite,andthecominganddepartingcompanysomoustached,sofrisky,soaffable,sofearfullyandwonderfullyFrenchy!

  Allthesurroundingsweregayandenlivening。Twohundredpeoplesatatlittletablesonthesidewalk,sippingwineandcoffee;thestreetswerethrongedwithlightvehiclesandwithjoyouspleasure—seekers;therewasmusicintheair,lifeandactionallaboutus,andaconflagrationofgaslighteverywhere!

  AfterdinnerwefeltlikeseeingsuchParisianspecialtiesaswemightseewithoutdistressingexertion,andsowesaunteredthroughthebrilliantstreetsandlookedatthedaintytriflesinvarietystoresandjewelryshops。Occasionally,merelyforthepleasureofbeingcruel,weputunoffendingFrenchmenontherackwithquestionsframedintheincomprehensiblejargonoftheirnativelanguage,andwhiletheywrithedweimpaledthem,wepepperedthem,wescarifiedthem,withtheirownvileverbsandparticiples。

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