BesidesthechurchofSt。MaryoftheSnowatCampra,therewasanotherwhichwasanexactcopyoftheSantaCasadiLoreto,andwheretherewasaremarkableechowhichwouldrepeatawordoftensyllableswhenthewindwasquiet。Thiswasexactlyonthesiteofthepresentsanctuary。ItseemedabetterplaceforthecontinuationofVelotti\'sworkthantheonehehadhimselfchosenforit,inasmuchasitwaswhereSignorMuratorisowellimpliesacentreofdevotionoughttobe,namely,in\"amilderclimate,andinaspotwhichoffersmoreresistancetotheinclemencyoftheweather,andisbetteradaptedtoattractandretaintheconcourseofthefaithful。\"
ThedesignofthepresentchurchwasmadebyanarchitectofthenameofArduzzi,intheyear1654,andthefirststonewaslaidin1659。In1687therightofliberatingabanditeveryyearhadbeenfoundtobeproductiveofsomuchmischiefthatitwasdiscontinued,andayearlycontributionoftwohundredlirewassubstituted。Thechurchwasnotcompleteduntilthesecondhalfofthelastcentury,whenthecupolawasfinishedmainlythroughtheenergyofapriest,CarloGiuseppeGastaldiofNetro。Thispoormancametohisendinarathersingularway。Hewasdozingforafewminutesuponascaffolding,andbeingawakenedbyasuddennoise,hestartedup,losthisbalance,andfelloverontothepavementbelow。Hediedafewdayslater,onthe17thofOctober,either1787or1778,Icannotdeterminewhich,throughamisprintinMuratori\'saccount。
Theworkwasnowvirtuallyfinished,andthebuildingsweremuchastheyareseennow,exceptthatathirdstoreywasaddedtothehospiceabouttheyear1840。Itisinthehospicethattheapartmentsareinwhichvisitorsarelodged。Iwasshownalloverthem,andfoundthemnotonlycomfortablebutluxurious——decidedlymoresothanthoseofOropa;therewasthesamecleanlinesseverywherewhichIhadnoticedintherestaurant。Asonestandsatthewindowsoronthebalconiesandlooksdownontothetopsofthechestnuts,andoverthesetotheplains,onefeelsalmostasifonecouldflyoutofthewindowlikeabird;fortheslopeofthehillsissorapidthatonehasasenseofbeingalreadysuspendedinmid-air。
IthoughtIobservedadesiretoattractEnglishvisitorsinthepictureswhichIsawinthebedrooms。Thustherewas\"AviewoftheblackleadmineinCumberland,\"acolouredEnglishprintoftheendofthelastcenturyorthebeginningofthis,after,Ithink,Loutherbourg,andinseveralroomstherewereEnglishengravingsafterMartin。TheEnglishwillnot,Ithink,regretiftheyyieldtotheseattractions。Theywillfindtheaircool,shadywalks,goodfood,andreasonableprices。Theirroomswillnotbechargedfor,buttheywilldowelltogivethesameastheywouldhavepaidatanhotel。Isawinoneroomoneofthoseflippant,frivolous,Lorenzode\'Medicimatch-boxesonwhichtherewasagaudily-
colourednymphinhigh-heeledbootsandtights,smokingacigarette。FeelingthatIwasinasanctuary,Iwasalittlesurprisedthatsuchamatchboxshouldhavebeentolerated。I